Part1: From Cusco to the Sacred Valley
Our taxi was ready and waiting at 8am sharp to take us to the Sacred Valley tour start point. At the bus depot our tickets were checked, our itinerary confirmed and our bags packed. Once we had received our lunch vouchers and claimed our seats the tour was ready to start. As the bus driver started the skilful art of manoeuvring his bus through the narrow and busy Cusco streets, our tour guide introduced herself in Spanish and then in English.
The entire trip would cover 170km, four major Inca settlements, markets and significant archaeological ruins. The highest point of the trip would reach 3800m above sea level before slowly winding down to the lowest point, Ollantaytambo at 2700m. Along the way our tour guide promised to introduce us to the Andean culture, the people, to traditions and myths as well as give us an insight into the Pre Inca culture.
Andean culture and traditions
All along the road were houses with two clay cows with a cross on top of the roofs. To the locals these sculptures are known as Torito de Pucará and they are considered lucky symbols that bring prosperity and fertility to the household. They are placed on the house when the house is first blessed before a newlywed couple move in. The bulls and the cross are a symbol of mixed religions. The bulls belong to the belief that Amaru, an ancient god appeared as a strong bull to help the people plough the soil and produce food to feed families. The cross comes from the Christian religion that many indigenous tribes adopted during the Spanish colonisation.
Even more intriguing were the red flags flying above certain houses. It turned out that if you are a black corn beer drinker then these flags are very important – they show you were you can buy ready black corn beer.
Women’s Project
Half an hour into our winding trip we stopped at a rural village market. Our enthusiastic guide explained that this market was part of a project to help keep the Andean traditions alive under the modern woman. With the economic pressures they found more and more women migrating to bigger towns to do odd jobs and the traditions and ancient knowledge on tending lands, farming, weaving all being lost. This project was aimed at helping women to earn an income while passing down their knowledge to the next generation.
The fragrance of the land, the colours of the market and the lively women besieged our senses. We knew we were in a market that catered to the tourists but we were also in a market that was run by very proud women from a very poor community. What really amazed me about these women is how friendly they were. They were so soft spoken, gentle and humble, yet so proud of their achievements.
Even though I could only speak three or four Spanish words, I really enjoyed engaging with these women and they left a permanent impression on me. What exactly impressed me about these women? I am not 100% sure but I think it was a combination of their attitude to life, their willingness to see the vibrant beauty that surrounded them and their love of life.